Today was Friday and Venice - Watch out for debit card daily withdrawl limits!

August 6th, 2010 - Venice, Italy

I was a little confused yesterday.  I was actually a day behind on the calendar. Well, it was Wednesday in the US, but Thursday here.  Maybe I was half right.

No problems with Gertrude today.  The van was in the parking lot all day.  We took the train from our hotel to Venice.  What a surprise after you leave the train station and begin the journey through Venice.  It is an exciting and beautiful place.  I anticipated dirty water and a bit of a smell.  It was really nothing like that, which is remarkable when you consider all that goes on there on a daily basis.  The canals are filled with gondolas, water taxis, other tour boats, supply boats, and the walkways with tens of thousands to hundreds of thousands of people each day.  As we began our walk through the city around 9:15 there were not many people around, by noon the place was packed.  We really have no idea how many, but we wouldn't be surprised to find out that four or five hundred thousand people were visiting today, basically doubling its resident population of around 400,000 people. 

As I said, the town is full of overwhelming beauty.  The apartments, homes, buildings, and churches all seem to fit together with what should be unnatural combination of these buildings surrounded by water.

The famous Rialto Bridge and a view from the top at the crowds and shops

There were the always present tourist shops with their cheap trinkets, but far more very nice clothing and upper end shops offering a variety of art mediums.  Venice is known for its glass products and these were very evident in the stores.  We soon realized that with the age of the buildings hardware stores were a high necessity.  There seemed to be one every few blocks.  It helped you to remember that you were walking not only through history, but through the neighborhoods of people living in the apartments with their clothes hanging to dry from second and third story windows.  It would have to be something to get used to having people walking within inches of your doorways and windows.  As we rounded one corner we were met with the smell of fresh fish.  There were many vendors selling fresh octopus, clams, squid, mussels, and every variety of fish you could imagine.  All were being unloaded and cleaned right in front of you.  A little further was a huge vegetable and fruit market.  I learned that this market had been the central business district of those living on the island since 1,000 AD.  We didn't see a grocery store, but none were needed with the daily supply of fresh food through this market.

After lunch we decided to split up for awhile and each couple went off on their own for a few hours. Mary Kay and I happened to be walking by one of the main gondola docking areas.  We had not planned to take a gondola ride since our at home research had told us that it was pretty expensive - 150 euros for a ride.  Of course, we were approached by a gondolier who went directly to Mary Kay and said, "Lady, lady - I make you special ride for only 100 euro - I promise it will be worth it, lady - I make the ride especially for you."  After some more convincing by the gondolier, I said we should go ahead and do it - after all we probably will never be back and how can you come to Venice and not take a gondola ride?  How could we pass up a 1/3 off sale?  It was a really nice experience, but as usual there were a few problems thrown in to make the experience even more unforgettable.  I asked the gondolier if he took a credit card, he said no, but that we could stop by the ATM to get cash. I thought the ATM would be on the way to the gondola, but soon found that we would start the trip and then stop at an ATM on the way.  I knew I had a little over 95 euros on me and that one debit card had nearly reached its maximum daily withdrawal that morning.  I had another card that I haven't used much, but thought it should be okay.  We soon docked and the gondolier told me the ATM machine was just down the walk.  Well ---, I was right the one card was too near its daily max to get the minimum withdrawal of 50 euros and I after several attempts I couldn't get the other card to accept the pin number that I had.  Do I leave Mary Kay with the gondolier or face him with the truth?  My palms were sweating as I approached the gondola with weak knees.

I meekly told him that I only had about 97 euros and that I couldn't get anymore from the ATM.  He gave me a little look and said he would finish the ride for the 97 euros.  I remembered I had some US money so I asked if he would take it and of course he did.  In the end we got a nice ride, seeing many of the interesting sights along the canal (Mozart's and Casanova's apartments among them) and he got his money. However, I felt a little awkward throughout the ride knowing that he most likely gets a tip.  We picked up a few interesting facts during the ride.  The lower level (water level) apartments have been vacated in recent years.  He said that in the winter the water level can raise up to two meters higher than in the summer (a little over 6 feet).  This makes the water level apartments which are already nearly water level uninhabitable.  The gondolas are really interesting boats.  They are made with a little twist to them so that the gondolier can paddle from just one side of the boat and deftly make it go wherever he wants it to go.  Occasionally, you will see a gondolier push off the side of a building with his foot, but most of the time they use their one paddle.  They are really adept at rowing them through very crowded waters and never once did I see one hit another boat or side of the canal.  It became very evident that all of the gondoliers and other boat operators must depend on the good will of each other.  There communications techniques were unbelievable as you would round a corner and realize that they already knew how each person was going to guide their boat to avoid a collision.  The gondoliers go through two years of training before they can have their own gondola.  Our gondolier was the fourth generation from his family to be a gondolier. The gondolas cost 55,000 euros.  I didn't get a chance to ask him what he hoped for, but it was probably just to get my trip done and get on to a new customer who might be able to give him a tip!  During our ride we also so a boat/ambulance go by.  All boats pulled over and let it through.  This made us even more aware that this is a community wholly dependent on the water for its needs.  It would be very difficult to get a person needing medical attention out of the city center without the use of the canals. 

After our ride we had a nice drink and listened to music in the plaza across from St. Mark's church, while waiting to meet up with the others.  Mary Kay and I had decided to stay until after supper to experience Venice at night.  Ian and Ruth joined us and Greg and Sharon decided to go back to the hotel.  By the way, if it stays you won't know Greg when he returns he is sporting a beard that makes him look like one of those rugged movie stars. Actually, he started it because he didn't have a razor the first few days and didn't feel good enough to care about buying one.  Now he is in good shape but I think he likes the look.  We'll see how long it lasts.  I will try to get a picture for tomorrow's post.

We left the plaza and went across the canal on a water taxi to go through Santa Maria del Salute church.  While we were there we lit a candle and said a prayer for Michelle. 

A little more walking and window shopping and it was time for Mary Kay to use the Water Closet, as the restrooms are called in Italy.  Of course they cost money and having no cash we had to get a couple of euros from Ian before the need became an emergency.  After she had finished, she found that she couldn't get out of the WC because the turn style was locked.  The only way to get out was to crawl under it.  What a sight!! 

It was beginning to cloud up so we decided to find a restaurant for supper and get inside before the rain started.  We were lucky we did!  Shortly after we made that decision we could see all the gondolas and water taxis hurrying to get themselves and passengers to shore.  The rains came in torrents.  Fortunately we were having another tremendous meal and drinks inside.  When we were finished the rain had slowed down considerably and we decided it was best to head back to the hotel and plan tomorrow's drive to Assisi.  We will try to use Gertrude the GPS lady again, but just in case we wanted a plan. 

At the hotel we got our maps and ordered a round of drink before going to bed.  Ruth took the orders and I asked for a Jack and coke.  She looked at me a little funny but went ahead and went to the bar.  As we were having our usual lively discussion about which route to take, I was about half way through my drink and noticed that it was very weak on the Jack.  I said something about it and Ruth said, "Did you want Jack Daniels with your coke? I thought you just said 'Jack wants coke' and that you were just being funny."  I guess that was another cultural difference between Australia and the US.  Jack didn't want just coke - Jack wanted Jack and coke.  Oh well, I was probably better off without it.  After 11 hours in Venice it was time to do this blog and get to bed.  By the way, I think the Italian, German, and Swiss food has somehow found the pounds I lost on the bike ride.  I'll have some work to do when I get home!!

Tomorrow - Saturday on to Assisi and our apartment for the next week.  We are really looking forward to a little slower pace, but still have several good side trips planned.  It has really been a great trip with our best friends from the US and Australia.  As usual we also miss our family.  Kyle and I have done a little skype talking the last few days and that has been nice.  It sounds like things are going well at home.  We haven't heard from Nate and Rachell about any changes in the expected due date for our seventeenth grandchild, but hope things are going well and that Rachell and "?" are healthy.  Who knows we may be stopping at the hospital on our way home from O'Hare on the 15th.

Arrivederci!!!

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